18: Sewing Needles &
Threads for Seams (cont.)
Yarn used for seams should be as smooth as
possible. If the yarn used for the garment has knobs or lumps, it
will be difficult to pull through the fabric without catching and
even disintegrating.
Look at the way the yarn has been constructed. To get a variety of
effects, many different threads are twisted together, sometimes with
interesting loops, or knobs and bumps, but you will find that there
will be one or two really thin threads that wind around the others
and hold the fancy bits in place. If these fine threads are pulled
out, the other threads are released and can usually be smoothed out,
even the knots and lumps. Cut a few short lengths of the yarn, and
using a sewing needle, pull out different threads until you identify
the binder. If there is a variety of threads making up the yarn, use
the smoothest and strongest for the seam. If the breakdown of the
yarn results in lots of thin threads, use a few wound together.
Yarns that have little balls of fluff, or tags, or long hairs can be
monsters when it comes to using them for a seam. Some are easy to
tackle because the component threads come apart easily and one has
all the decorative bits. If the special effects have been added in
to the yarn, they can be picked off and you will be left with a
smoother thread which will be easy to use [pic 6,7,8,9,10,11].
6: (left) A complex yarn becomes
manageable when unravelled.
7: (right) One of two component threads is smooth to
use.
8: (left) Divide the yarn and pick off the
tags.
9: (right) Hairy tags pull out easily.
10: (left)
The little furry ball can be picked off.
11:
(right) Eyelash yarn is easy to use when you pull the hairs off
the base.
Although a yarn may be thick or uneven, it doesn’t always have
to be dissected. It is only necessary if it is difficult to pull
through the knitting. You can anticipate trouble if you run the
thread between your thumb and first finger and it catches instead of
moving through easily.
If you have made a garment with a very soft yarn, especially angora,
you may have a problem using it for seams because it could break or
disintegrate. Match the colour with another, stronger yarn and use
this for the seams. If you are desperate to use the soft yarn or you
can’t find a match, use a very large needle to avoid wear and tear
on the yarn as you sew. Settle each stitch in place as you go to
avoid pulling on a fragile yarn.
NEXT CHAPTER >>
chapter page: 1 | 2
|