|19: Stitch to Stitch
or Horizontal Seams (cont.)
If the shoulder shaping has been stepped, treat
the steps as if they didnít exist [pic 14].
14: Stepped shoulder. This is exaggerated because the
steps are not usually as short as these.
Work the seam using the stitches below the
cast-off row in sequence, and even if the next stitch is two rows
higher or lower because of the step, just join it to the
corresponding next stitch on the other piece. When the seam has been
firmed up by being tightened and then released, the steps will be
either hidden, or at least less obvious [pic 15].
15: The steps are not obvious on the right side when the
shoulder has been joined by matching stitch to stitch.
If there are little holes left after
joining, close them with a stitch worked with a needle and thread on
the wrong side.
If you rely on using a backstitch seam on a
stepped shoulder, it will be hard to stop that seam from looking
messy [pic 16].
16: Itís hard to make a backstitch seam on a stepped
shoulder look perfect.
A back stitch seam on a stepped shoulder is
usually worked some distance from the edge because you are trying to
avoid the dips and dives of the steps. Because of this, the seam
becomes very thick, and thereís nowhere for the extra fabric to go
except for it to stand up like an epaulette on the shoulder. A
matched seam worked on the closest stitches on the cast-off row
produces a much finer seam [pic 17,18].
17: (left) A big fat backstitch seam
inside the shoulder.
18: (right) A finer matched stitch seam.
NEXT PAGE >>
chapter page: 1 |
2 | 3 |
4 | 5 | 6